Thursday, June 4, 2009

Now to cut out your Kameez...

Needed:
About 2 1/2 yards of fabric
Matching thread
Fusible interfacing
Your pattern
Paper, pencil and ruler
Before you start cutting, please read through all the instructions and understand how you will lay out your pattern pieces on your material.
PS And please realize that these drawings aren't to scale!

Your first pattern piece will be the rectangular A-C-L-B portion of your pattern. You may cut out just one large piece (front & back together) or you may cut out two pieces (a separate front and back). I usually cut out both a front and back--just be sure to add the seam allowances at the shoulder if you choose to do this.
I will show how to cut out one large front-and-back-all-together (a bit easier):
Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, then in half again horizontally, so that your fabric is folded in fourths. Place the rectangular A-C-L-B pattern piece so that the shoulder (A-C) is at the horizontal fold and the midline (A-B) is on the longitudinal fold:

Cut out the large rectangle, adding 1/2 inch for seam allowances and 1 inch for hem allowance, as indicated by the red lines (do not cut out the neck openings yet).

Now, unfold the horizontal fold. You will have a llloooonnnngggg rectangle of cloth. Keep the fabric folded longitudinally to cut the neckline opening.
Use your pattern to trace the front neckline (D-E) and back neckline (D-F). Cut 1/2 inch inside your marking line (for the seam allowance) as indicated by the red line.

Now cut out two sleeves on the fold. Adding 1/2 inch for seam allowances (along H-M and C-M) and one inch hem allowance along G-H, cut out as indicated by the red lines:
Cut out four side pieces, again adding 1/2 inch for seam allowances (J-M, J-K, and M-L) and one inch for hem allowance (K-L):


Don't forget to cut out two gussets (from your 4 inch square pattern).

Now you need to make a neck facing:
Trace your neckline on another piece of paper (the black line). At the front center, draw a line 7 inches straight down the midline. Use a ruler to draw a larger oval 2 1/2 inches outside the neckline you've drawn (this is the green line). Then finish drawing the neck facing as shown, making sure you have an inch of facing beyond point X.

Cut one of fusible interfacing and one of fabric. You don't need to add seam allowances.


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